Comments on: Cooler Lapping Tutorial http://www.danielandrade.net/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/ Daniel Andrade Tech Stuff Wed, 08 Feb 2012 20:55:59 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: Cooler Lapping Tutorial at DanielAndrade net | Outdoor Ceiling Fans http://www.danielandrade.net/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-148428 Cooler Lapping Tutorial at DanielAndrade net | Outdoor Ceiling Fans Sun, 31 May 2009 11:37:45 +0000 http://www.ovelha.org/pasteler0/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-148428 [...] Cooler Lapping Tutorial at DanielAndrade net Posted by root 5 hours ago (http://www.danielandrade.net) Have you ever looked down in the base of your computer cooler they aren 39 t always clean and shining hope you liked and anything just leave a comment thanks for reading and take a good look in our powered by wordpress and k2 Discuss  |  Bury |  News | Cooler Lapping Tutorial at DanielAndrade net [...] [...] Cooler Lapping Tutorial at DanielAndrade net Posted by root 5 hours ago (http://www.danielandrade.net) Have you ever looked down in the base of your computer cooler they aren 39 t always clean and shining hope you liked and anything just leave a comment thanks for reading and take a good look in our powered by wordpress and k2 Discuss  |  Bury |  News | Cooler Lapping Tutorial at DanielAndrade net [...]

]]> By: gtsiros http://www.danielandrade.net/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-82497 gtsiros Wed, 25 Jun 2008 21:22:22 +0000 http://www.ovelha.org/pasteler0/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-82497 um suppose you make it have a mirror finish. to have perfect contact with the cpu die, however, the two surfaces must be absolutely flat. if one is even slightly differently curved than the other, then they are in actualy contact in a very very small area. fill the area between the heatsink and the die with lead dust. it's metal and it spreads... um
suppose you make it have a mirror finish.
to have perfect contact with the cpu die, however, the two surfaces must be absolutely flat.
if one is even slightly differently curved than the other, then they are in actualy contact in a very very small area.
fill the area between the heatsink and the die with lead dust. it’s metal and it spreads…

]]> By: Cedloks http://www.danielandrade.net/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-67801 Cedloks Thu, 01 Nov 2007 19:35:08 +0000 http://www.ovelha.org/pasteler0/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-67801 ONLINE - DRUGSTORE! PRICES of ALL MEDICINES! FIND THAT NECESSARY... VIAGRA, CIALIS, PHENTERMINE, SOMA... and other pills! Welcome please: pills-prices.blogspot.com NEW INFORMATION ABOUT PAYDAY LOANS! Welcome please: payday-d-loans.blogspot.com GOOD LUCK! ONLINE – DRUGSTORE!
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]]> By: --LEN-- http://www.danielandrade.net/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-61849 --LEN-- Sun, 16 Sep 2007 02:26:32 +0000 http://www.ovelha.org/pasteler0/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-61849 nice tutorial but add more pics of the process it would be nice... anyway is a great tutorial maybe i will try some day nice tutorial but add more pics of the process it would be nice… anyway is a great tutorial maybe i will try some day

]]> By: Volker http://www.danielandrade.net/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-52073 Volker Fri, 08 Jun 2007 07:50:04 +0000 http://www.ovelha.org/pasteler0/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-52073 Nice step-by-step tutorial, I think I will try that :-) There's one more (in german) for heat spreader lapping : http://www.hardtecs4u.com/reviews/2000/lapping/ I guess, for the best effect, one has to do both. Nice step-by-step tutorial, I think I will try that :-)

There’s one more (in german) for heat spreader lapping :

http://www.hardtecs4u.com/reviews/2000/lapping/

I guess, for the best effect, one has to do both.

]]> By: Cedrix Metalix http://www.danielandrade.net/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-47181 Cedrix Metalix Tue, 15 May 2007 20:23:03 +0000 http://www.ovelha.org/pasteler0/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-47181 This is a cool tutorial! Guys, cut the boolshit. Take mesurements of your rig's before and after temperatures and you will be amazed how good polishing really is. Idel: Before: 34 Celcius. After: 29 Celcius. AMD athlon XP 1900 X2 with standard AMD cooler. Heavy Load: 2x WinRar RARing the entire hard drive. Over 1 hour Before: 56 C After : 45 C So... no mather wath they say.. it realy works! Keep lapping! This is a cool tutorial!
Guys, cut the boolshit. Take mesurements of your rig’s before and after temperatures and you will be amazed how good polishing really is.
Idel:
Before: 34 Celcius.
After: 29 Celcius.
AMD athlon XP 1900 X2 with standard AMD cooler.
Heavy Load: 2x WinRar RARing the entire hard drive. Over 1 hour
Before: 56 C
After : 45 C

So… no mather wath they say.. it realy works!
Keep lapping!

]]> By: Womit W?rmeleitpaste entfernen? - Mindfactory AG Community Forum http://www.danielandrade.net/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-35848 Womit W?rmeleitpaste entfernen? - Mindfactory AG Community Forum Tue, 13 Mar 2007 21:10:57 +0000 http://www.ovelha.org/pasteler0/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-35848 [...] Eine tolle Anleitung mit beeindruckenden Bildern habe ich in meinen Bookmarks gefunden: Cooler Lapping Tutorial at pasteler0 __________________ "Ceterum censeo Carthaginem esse [...] [...] Eine tolle Anleitung mit beeindruckenden Bildern habe ich in meinen Bookmarks gefunden: Cooler Lapping Tutorial at pasteler0 __________________ "Ceterum censeo Carthaginem esse [...]

]]> By: Daniel http://www.danielandrade.net/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-11407 Daniel Thu, 14 Sep 2006 03:04:32 +0000 http://www.ovelha.org/pasteler0/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-11407 Uma Moeda de 5 centavos \o\ Uma Moeda de 5 centavos \o\

]]> By: obm http://www.danielandrade.net/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-3436 obm Thu, 13 Jul 2006 10:23:02 +0000 http://www.ovelha.org/pasteler0/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-3436 Cool discussion going on here, so lets continue, First of all, in all the basic discussions on thermodynamics, metals are taken to be perfect conductors, this means that any kinetic energy transfer in terms of heat exchange on to the contact is free to go anywhere within the bounderies of metal. The principle of heatsink follows from this, you use a metal with large metal to air surface area to replace the relatively small surface area of the object you are trying to cool. But in practice, things are not so perfect. First of all, the metals used are not perfect, in fact far from it. Thus you have to resort to some tricks in the contact area. The surface resistance of the metals is considerably high when directly in touch with something. An intermediate contact material reduces this resistance. Also, since the metal in question is not perfect, a larger contact area is better for heat transfer (think of resistances in parallel). Thermal contact material also enables a better contact area filling the gaps. Once you transfer the heat from the object to the bulk of the heatsink, the transfer to the fins is almost instant (unless you are using something that is very very cheap), so no problem here up to the point where you need to circulate the air. The reason why I am telling "shinig/waxing" after sanding is not better than appliying a good thermal conductor mediant (Artic silver was the name I guess) must be clear now. The bad thing about standart thermal silicon is that the heat conductance is lower, and active silicon tend to oxydize due to rather unstable hybrid orbitals in time, resulting in the yucky thermal insulating thing you have to clean. The thermal paste in the stock fans of INTEL and AMD are also very good, but the silver thing is better. However, if you are using one I do not advise you to remove it unless absolutely necessary. Well, I also have some experimental data, the silver thingy has up to 10 C better performance compared to standart thermal paste (depends on the heatsink, on a p4 radiator, using coolmaster copper). Also cleaning and sanding old thermal paste on a heatsink (replacing with a standart new paste) has drastic improvement (56 C -> 45 C in the rather extravagant case of mine). Sanding is especially good in copper or cheap aluminum heatsinks, the thin layer of oxidization and/or protective coating is removed. Active silicon also attacks the oxidization layer. Hope the information is usefull. Cool discussion going on here, so lets continue,

First of all, in all the basic discussions on thermodynamics, metals are taken to be perfect conductors, this means that any kinetic energy transfer in terms of heat exchange on to the contact is free to go anywhere within the bounderies of metal. The principle of heatsink follows from this, you use a metal with large metal to air surface area to replace the relatively small surface area of the object you are trying to cool.

But in practice, things are not so perfect. First of all, the metals used are not perfect, in fact far from it. Thus you have to resort to some tricks in the contact area. The surface resistance of the metals is considerably high when directly in touch with something. An intermediate contact material reduces this resistance. Also, since the metal in question is not perfect, a larger contact area is better for heat transfer (think of resistances in parallel). Thermal contact material also enables a better contact area filling the gaps. Once you transfer the heat from the object to the bulk of the heatsink, the transfer to the fins is almost instant (unless you are using something that is very very cheap), so no problem here up to the point where you need to circulate the air.

The reason why I am telling “shinig/waxing” after sanding is not better than appliying a good thermal conductor mediant (Artic silver was the name I guess) must be clear now. The bad thing about standart thermal silicon is that the heat conductance is lower, and active silicon tend to oxydize due to rather unstable hybrid orbitals in time, resulting in the yucky thermal insulating thing you have to clean. The thermal paste in the stock fans of INTEL and AMD are also very good, but the silver thing is better. However, if you are using one I do not advise you to remove it unless absolutely necessary.

Well, I also have some experimental data, the silver thingy has up to 10 C better performance compared to standart thermal paste (depends on the heatsink, on a p4 radiator, using coolmaster copper). Also cleaning and sanding old thermal paste on a heatsink (replacing with a standart new paste) has drastic improvement (56 C -> 45 C in the rather extravagant case of mine). Sanding is especially good in copper or cheap aluminum heatsinks, the thin layer of oxidization and/or protective coating is removed. Active silicon also attacks the oxidization layer.

Hope the information is usefull.

]]> By: Pastel Unit http://www.danielandrade.net/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-3357 Pastel Unit Wed, 12 Jul 2006 00:19:38 +0000 http://www.ovelha.org/pasteler0/2006/07/08/lapping-tutorial/#comment-3357 The real question is, can you polish a Lian Li case? The real question is, can you polish a Lian Li case?

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